M1992 surfs a dark wave in Milan

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jun 16, 2018

The men's and womenswear runway show presented by Dorian Stefano Tarantini in Milan on Saturday morning unveiled a highly accomplished collection, with the DJ, who branched into fashion at the beginning of 2017, proving his talent through strong, punchy silhouettes that combined high-quality fabrics and technical textiles. For spring-summer 2019, his M1992 label, known for its high-end sartorial style mixed with elements of streetwear, took a dive into sportswear, seeking inspiration in an original vision of surf culture. 

Which is to say that the designer did not treat his guests to a parade of beach-blond Californian surfers, but plunged them into the dark, eerie depths of oceans polluted by plastic and petrol. Hair slicked back with oil, his gothic-looking models wore loose black or white tuxedos and business outfits, or oversized suits in impeccably tailored grey flannel with elasticated waists. 

One model wore a heavy chain adorned with a shark tooth around his neck. Oilrigs and drowning bankers decorated some of the shirts, while the jaws of a shark and skulls coiffed with a blue wave appeared here and there on white t-shirts. Some models wore fishing nets over their faces, while brambles climbed up the leg of a pair of baggy trousers like a trim, or wound themselves around the collars of jackets. 

Everything was highly graphic and at one point the palette suddenly swerved into blood red with some completely couture looks and a selection of others that channelled a distinct sportswear vibe, such as a shirt with drawstring hems that gave it the air of a jacket, a piece that was also sent out in a golden crocodile-style leather. 

The collection's sportswear influences also came through in its short wetsuits and surfer pants made from technical fabrics, as well as in the ultra light nylon and organza used to make transparent suits tinged with a sage green. You can't have an M1992 collection without denim and here it was used in hooded sweaters, jackets and a pair of baggy trompe-l'œil double-denim jeans which created the illusion that the model had slipped a pair of blue jeans on over a black pair. 

As for the womenswear, models were poured into micro coatdresses with metallic buttons and some very "Armani" jackets, which they alternated with oversized men's suits.